噶瑪蘭新娘禮服
Kavalan Bridal Wedding Dresses

許多平埔部落的工藝傳統至19世紀中葉左右，已經陸續流失。居住在宜蘭平原的噶瑪蘭族亦是如此。少數珍貴的早期噶瑪蘭服飾，目前因為外來者的採集收藏而留存在海外。最精彩者如加拿大皇家安大略博物館保存的1880年代馬偕（Lesile G. Mackay）牧師採集的新娘盛裝禮服，以及華麗的瑪瑙珠和玻璃珠串首飾。

 

從馬偕（Lesile G. Mackay）牧師採集的20多件服飾文物，可以知道19世紀噶瑪蘭新娘儀式盛裝究竟穿些什麼。其組成大致包括長袖織繡長衣、綴珠垂鈴織花腰裙、綴珠垂鈴織花腰帶等，以及華麗的瑪瑙珠串頭飾、珠串項鍊、珠串腕飾、珠串足脛飾和腳踝飾、珠串耳飾等。這些華麗多彩炫目的服飾，不僅顯露當時宜蘭平原的物資富裕生活多采多姿，也反映噶瑪蘭人傑出的工藝技術和裝飾美感。

 

馬偕採集的噶瑪蘭服飾文物，許多曾經出現於1896年馬偕《臺灣遙記》書後所附一張標題為「平埔族織布婦女」照片中；照片中這位示範織布機使用的平埔婦女身穿全套盛裝。根據馬偕日記資料推測，這位平埔婦女應該是宜蘭打馬煙社頭目偕阿篤(A-tok)的女兒偕阿雲，後來曾擔任淡水女學堂舍監。參考老照片中宜蘭織布婦女穿戴盛裝的方式和留存下來的實體文物藏品，大致描繪出過去噶瑪蘭新娘盛裝的復原圖如下。

 

In the mid-19th century, indigenous traditional materials and craftworks nearly disappeared from the plain villages in Taiwan. This situation is exemplified by the case of the Kavalan, which was the dominate cultural group in the Yi-lan Plain in the past. Only a few of the early and precious Kavalan costumes and textiles have been collected and preserved in overseas museums. The most valuable ones are the Kavalan bridal wedding dresses and ornaments collected by the Rev. George Lesile Mackay in the 1880s, which are now preserved in the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto, Canada.

 

The 20 pieces of wedding costumes and ornaments collected by Rev. Mackay provide a general picture of the kinds of dresses worn by the Kavalan in a grand ceremony. These include a set of colorful woven upper long garment, beaded woven loin cloth, woven cape, and beaded woven belt, as well as a gorgeous carnelian beaded headdress, beaded necklaces, bracelets, leglet and anklets, and earrings. These beautiful costumes and ornaments not only reveal the affluence and colorful life in the Yi-lan Plain, but also reflect the remarkable craftsmanship and aesthetic concepts of the Kavalan during that particular period.

 

Many of the abovementioned Kavalan wedding dresses have appeared in a black and white photo entitled “A Pepeo Weaver,” which was appended in a book written by Rev. Mackay-- From Far Formosa that was published in 1891. In this photo, a Peopo woman puts on a set of formal ritual dresses and earnestly demonstrates the way of using the Kavalan weaving loom. According to the records of Rev. Mackay’s diary, the photographed weaver was a daughter of A-tok (the head of the Tamayan village at the Yi-lan Plain), whose name was Kay Awen. Based on the image of the woman’s ritual dresses in the photo and the objects collected by Rev. Mackay and preserved in the Canadian museum, we can illustrate the formal wedding dress made for the Kavalan bride in the past.

 

平埔族織布婦女 （馬偕1896） A Peopo weaver (Mackay 1896)	噶瑪蘭新娘盛裝復原圖 （胡家瑜2015） An illustration of the Kavalan bride in ritual dressing (Chia-yu Hu 2015)