噶瑪蘭織布工藝
The Kavalan Weaving Craft

噶瑪蘭織布紋樣 / Kavalan Weaving Patterns

 

除了獨特的香蕉絲織布技術之外，噶瑪蘭婦女過去也善於使用麻、毛或棉等色線，織出繁複華麗多彩鮮豔紋樣的織布，製成衣服；有時還在織布上加上不同繡紋裝飾。

 

從現今保存的早期噶瑪蘭織布文物，可以看見噶瑪蘭織紋圖案的特色及其轉變。這些珍貴織布樣本，顯現出19世紀宜蘭噶瑪蘭色彩繽紛而組合複雜細緻的織布紋樣；到1930年代，遷移到花蓮的噶瑪蘭織布，則呈現較儉樸而規律化的白、藍、黑、紅色織紋樣。

 

Other than their unique banana fiber weaving skills, the Kavalan women were also good at using ramie, wool, or cotton to weave fabrics with colorful, complicated, and pretty patterns. Sometimes, different embroidery patterns were added on the woven cloths as decorations.

 

By analyzing the early Kavalan textile collections preserved in museums, we could determine the special weaving patterns and their transformations. These precious collections show the extraordinarily colorful and delicate weaving patterns on the woven fabrics made by the Yi-lan Kavalan during the 19th century. The weaving patterns became much simpler and less colorful as evidenced by the woven fabric made by the Hua-lien Kavalan in the 1930s.

 

19世紀宜蘭噶瑪蘭織花紋樣（ROM # 915.3.39） Yi-lan Kavalan weaving patterns in the 19th century	1930年代花蓮噶瑪蘭織花紋樣（AMNH # 70.2/474） Hua-lien Kavalan weaving patterns in the 1930s
19世紀宜蘭噶瑪蘭織花紋樣（ROM # 915.3.174） Yi-lan Kavalan weaving patterns in the 19th century	19世紀宜蘭噶瑪蘭織繡紋樣（ROM # 915.3.38） Yi-lan Kavalan weaving and embroidery patterns in the 19th century