噶瑪蘭織布工藝
The Kavalan Weaving Craft

噶瑪蘭織紋的當代再現 / Revival of Kavalan weaving Craft

 

2002年，噶瑪蘭族正式被認定為臺灣原住民中的一族。當代的噶瑪蘭人更加積極復振母語和傳統文化，其中織布工藝即是重要的文化再現項目之一。2005年花蓮新社(Lalaban)香蕉絲工坊正式成立，不但傳承並提升香蕉絲織布技術，也積極研發復振傳統織布紋樣。保存在博物館的早期噶瑪蘭織品，在21世紀的今天，成為能夠再現過去噶瑪蘭織紋的珍貴材料。花蓮新社香蕉絲工坊的工藝師們，參考其中一些織品紋樣和色彩組合，嘗試透過織布工藝再現過去噶瑪蘭文化意象。穿越時空界線的服飾織品，不但在當代生活中扮演召喚過去記憶的關鍵媒介，也轉化出文化創新發展的動力。

 

In 2002, the Kavalan has been formally recognized as the 11th indigenous group in Taiwan. At present, the Kavalan descendants are eagerly exerting efforts to revive their language and cultural traditions. Reviving the weaving craft is one of the major concerns because it represents their distinctive cultural characteristics. To revitalize the banana fiber making and weaving skills, as well as to study and reproduce traditional weaving patterns, the Lalaban Banana Fiber Craft Studio has been established at Lalaban village in the Hua-lien County. The Kavalan weavers in the Lalaban Craft Studio have reproduced and recreated beautiful woven textiles based on the rare traditional Kavalan woven textiles collected and preserved in the museums. The local agencies that are being derived from weaving not only recall the cultural memories of the past but also build linkages with the present and create possibilities for the future.

 

1930年代淺井慧倫採集的花蓮噶瑪蘭織布花紋樣（AMNH # 70.2/474） Hua-lien Kavalan weaving patterns in the 1930s	1880年代馬偕採集的宜蘭噶瑪蘭新娘裙織布紋樣（ROM # 915.3.39） Weaving patterns on the Kavalan bridal skirt collected by Rev. Mackay in the 19th century
2015年花蓮新社香蕉絲織布工坊參考淺井藏品重製的織布（胡家瑜拍攝，2015） Lalaban weaving studio reproduced banana fiber woven cloth in 2015 based on the patterns on the Kavalan textile collected by Prof. Asii in 1930s	2015年花蓮新社香蕉絲織布工坊參考馬偕藏品再製的織布（潘朝成提供，2015） Lalaban weaving studio reproduced cotton woven textile in 2015 based on the patterns on the Kavalan bridal skirt collected by Rev. Mackay
噶瑪蘭工坊製作的香蕉絲織布文創商品（胡家瑜拍攝，2014） Banana fiber commodity made by the XinsheGavalan Studio and displayed in the 2014 exhibition	花蓮新社噶瑪蘭婦女穿著織製的彩色禮服（胡家瑜拍攝，2014） Hua-lien XinsheGavalan women wearing colorful reproduced costumes
展覽中的噶瑪蘭工坊製作織布服飾（胡家瑜拍攝，2014） Reproduced woven costumes made by the XinsheGavalan studio and displayed in the 2014 exhibition