噶瑪蘭織布工藝
The Kavalan Weaving Craft

噶瑪蘭織布機 / Kavalan Weaving Loom

 

噶瑪蘭織布過去都是婦女使用水平背帶織布機製成。織布時婦女坐在地面工作，經線與地面平行。織布機的製作由男子負責；整組背帶織布機主要由簡單而不同功能的棒狀工具組成，如：經卷、布夾、固定棒、順紗弓形棒、挑紗棒、刀形打線棒、梭子等。有時候噶瑪蘭工匠會在織布工具二側裝飾有細緻的線雕紋，展現其木雕技術和獨特裝飾美感。

 

19世紀末期馬偕在宜蘭採集的噶瑪蘭織布機，可以看出木工細膩，而且經卷和刀形打棒上雕刻有三角、半圓、弧形等幾何或人形線雕紋。 1930年代淺井惠倫在花蓮加里宛社採集的噶瑪蘭織布，木工製作粗略，已經和早期明顯不同。

 

Kavalan weaving was performed by women on a horizontal back-strap loom. When women weaved, they sat on the ground and placed the warp threads in a horizontal position relative to the ground. The loom is operated by arranging a number of different sticks and rods with different sizes and functions, such as warp bar, cloth bar, heddle stick, shed rod, sword beater, as well as weft shuttle. The weaving loom equipment was made by men. In some cases, a Kavalan carpenter would incise geometric patterns or human figure patters on the ends of weaving sticks as an expression of their special carving skills and aesthetics.

 

The Kavalan loom collected in the Yi-lan Plain by Rev. Mackay at the end of 19th century clearly shows the delicate woodworking and carving skills of Kavalan carpenters. There are beautiful geometric and human figure pattern carvings on the warp rod and beater. Nevertheless, the Kavalan loom collected in the Hua-lie Kalewan village by Prof. Asaii in the 1930s shows much more cursory and rough woodworking details in comparison with that obtained at an earlier period.

 

19世紀末採集的宜蘭噶瑪蘭織布機 Kavalan loom collected in Yi-lan by the end of 19th century	1930年代採集的花蓮噶瑪蘭織布機 Kavalan loom collected in Hua-lien around 1930s