噶瑪蘭新娘禮服
Kavalan Bridal Wedding Dresses

珠串項鍊 / Necklaces of Carnelian Beads or Glass Beads

 

噶瑪蘭婦女盛裝時，經常配戴多條珠串項鍊，有時是紅色瑪瑙珠、有時是金黃色玻璃珠，有時還混合串搭其他珍貴亮麗的材質如銀或金屬等形成搶眼的對比效果。

 

銀棒珠串項鍊(ROM col. # 915.3.224)：其中最特別的一件如婚禮時新娘配戴的銀棒珠串項鍊，由藍色玻璃珠串成掛鍊，珠鍊下端連接一支銀棒裝飾。銀棒二端有猴頭鑄像（其中一端的猴頭已脫失），下側有鏤空雲紋裝飾，並綁繫有四串瑪瑙玻和璃珠鍊垂飾，四串珠鍊底端垂掛一片直徑約3、4公分圓形小銀片，銀片一面刻有花葉紋，另一面刻有吉祥漢字如「狀元及第」、「狀元拜相」、「連招貴子」等。明顯可見是婚禮時新娘配戴的飾品。

 

- 瑪瑙珠串項鍊(ROM col. # 915.3.207-211)和黃金玻璃珠串項鍊(ROM col. # 915.3.212-213)：這二種項鍊是噶瑪蘭婦女盛裝時最普遍配戴的首飾。主要是以細麻繩穿串成單串珠鍊。瑪瑙珠鍊使用的瑪瑙珠粒，形狀大多呈六角柱形或菱形，大小差異極大，大者長約4或5公分、粗約1公分。黃金玻璃珠則呈圓管狀，玻璃珠表層釉彩中間夾有金箔，因此呈現閃亮的金黃色，因此俗稱為「黃金珠」。根據早期文獻記錄和噶瑪蘭耆老記憶，瑪瑙珠或黃金珠是過去噶瑪蘭族進行竹占巫術治病時，放在細竹管上與祖靈溝通的巫珠。

 

Kavalan women usually wore pieces of necklaces to go with their ritual costumes. Their necklaces were often made of threaded red carnelian beads or yellow glass beads. Sometimes, various precious shining materials, such as silver or metal, were also combined to create contrasting effects.

 

- Necklace of silver rod and beads (ROM col. #915.3.224): One of the most special pieces is a necklace made of a silver rod and various kinds of beads. The necklace comprises a chain of blue glass beads, a silver rod pendant, and fringes of carnelian beads and round silver plates hanging at the edge. Two ends of the silver rod are inserted into a silver molded monkey head (the head in one end is lost). At the lower edge of the silver rod, four fringes of carnelian and glass beads are joined by small round silver plates. These four silver plates have been engraved with lucky Chinese words. It is a special lucky necklace worn by the Kavalan bride on her wedding day.

 

- Carnelian beaded necklace (ROM col. # 915.3.207-211) and glass beaded necklace (ROM col. # 915.3.212-213): These two kinds of necklaces were the most popular ornaments worn by the Kavalan women whenever they dress formally for rituals. The necklace is basically made of a single string of threaded beads. The carnelian beads are often faceted or in a rhombohedron shape. Their sizes vary greatly. The yellow glass beads are often shaped as tubular columns, and these beads are popularly called “gold beads” because they glitter with a golden color because of the thin gold foil filling in the middle of the glaze. According to historical documents and narratives of Kavalan elders, the carnelian beads and yellow glass beads were used as divination beads to communicate with ancestors when the female shaman performed bamboo divination in the past.

 

關於「銀棒珠串胸飾」	銀棒珠串項鍊 Necklace of silver rod and beads(ROM col. # 915.3.224)
關於「瑪瑙珠串項鍊」 瑪瑙珠串項鍊 Carnelian beaded necklace (ROM col. # 915.3.207-211)	關於「黃金玻璃珠串項鍊」 黃金玻璃珠串項鍊 Glass beaded necklace (ROM col. # 915.3.212-213)